The seventies-inspired trend that is happening now is probably closest in
aesthetic to Chloe, the house that founded ready-to-wear and is known for
its fluid tailoring. 60 years after the house was founded, creative
director Clare Waight Keller has kept to Chloe’s codes, stating: “I really
wanted to capture something confident, but still with a carefree spirit.”
She did this with floor length coats with wide lapels, trousers that were
soft and languid, delicate lace and silk georgette slips. All in one suits
and waistcoats were the fashion pieces, as were the patchwork, capes and
brass button detailing.
Since Phoebe Philo took over the creative reigns at Celine, we have seen
pared-down collections, devoid of superfluous glamour or sexuality. But
this season Philo broke away from her strictness, and showed us a more
carefree spirit. There were big, fluffy pom-poms on cuffs, bustiers on
knitwear, otters, foxes and deer prints from children’s books. There were
also duvet coats with prominent buttons, that allowed for a sleeve to be
pealed back. On the soundtrack Brazilian musician Caetano Veloso was
singing, perhaps a nod to the Latin American spirit where of course the
“blood is a little hotter.”
Akris designer Albert Kriemler took hoodies, parkas, harrington jackets and
utility outerwear, crafting it into understated, sophisticated luxury
separates. A hint of yellow broke the hues of mostly neutral tones in
beige, creams and pale greys. You could imagine the customer wearing it at
her Swiss mountain retreat or in St Gallen, where the company’s
headquarters are based. What started with aprons in the 1950s has turned
into a global force of clothes that don’t need to scream for distinction.
At Akris, fabrication, craftsmanship and wearability surpass trends, which
is probably why it attracts clients including Nicole Kidman and Angelina
Jolie.
Givenchy on Sunday celebrated 10 years with designer Ricardo Tisci at its
helm. Inspired by California’s Chola girl gang, for autumn winter 15 a
Givenchy warrior girl sported nose rings, facial jewellery and swirling
hair, courtesy of Pat McGrath and her team. The clothes were sufficiently
subversive with a Catholic cross stitched into the bodice of a dress,
corseted and peplumed jackets and dresses over trousers, all signature
Givenchy. There was emphasis on craftsmanship and luxury, with the final
pieces painstakingly embroidered with jet beads as seen on a strapless
bustier dress, a bias-cut net gown and on a pair of tailcoats. With the
Kardashians and Katy Perry on the front row, it was stellar showmanship all
round.
Images: Chloe, Givenchy, Celine, Akris AW15
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